A Prince Cast Away
Golu Devta — also called Gwel, Goril or Gaur Bhairav in different areas — is one of the most widely worshipped local gods of Kumaon. His legend begins at a royal court. In the most common version, he was born the son of a Katyuri king, often named Jhal Rai, and his queen Kalinka.
The king had several other queens who had no children and were jealous of Kalinka. When she gave birth, they blindfolded her, took the baby away and put a stone in its place, telling her and the king that she had given birth to a stone. The baby was put in a box and thrown into the river.
The box floated downstream and was found by a fisherman, who raised the child as his own.
The Wooden Horse
The boy grew up clever and fearless. One day he took a wooden toy horse to the river ghat where the king's queens were bathing, and began trying to make it drink. The queens laughed at him: "How can a wooden horse drink water?"
The boy replied: "If a woman can give birth to a stone, why can't a wooden horse drink water?"
Word of the strange reply reached the king. When the boy was questioned, the truth came out — he was the king's lost son. The jealous queens were punished, Kalinka was honoured, and the young prince eventually became king.
The King Who Became a God
As king, Golu became famous for his fairness. He travelled across his kingdom on a white horse, listening to people's complaints and settling disputes justly, even when powerful people were in the wrong. After his death, people began to worship him as a god who still delivers justice — especially to those who cannot get it anywhere else.
Writing to God: Petitions and Bells
The most remarkable feature of Golu Devta's temples is the custom of written petitions. Devotees write their problems on paper — sometimes on official stamp paper, like a legal application — and tie them up in the temple. Cases may involve land disputes, family quarrels, lost property, exams or jobs.
When their wish is granted, devotees return to offer a bell. Over generations, the temples have filled with tens of thousands of bells of every size, hung from every beam and railing. Newly married couples also visit to seek his blessing.
Where to Visit Golu Devta
- Chitai (near Almora): The best known Golu Devta temple, a few kilometres from Almora on the Pithoragarh road. Its corridors are covered with bells and letters.
- Ghorakhal (near Bhowali, Nainital): A hilltop temple with a large collection of bells, popular with visitors to the Kumaon lakes.
- Champawat: Considered by many to be Golu's original home and the centre of his worship.
- Gairad (near Binsar): A quieter temple in the hills near the Binsar sanctuary.
Golu Devta is also invoked at jagar ceremonies, when drummers and singers call on the god to come and speak through a medium, giving advice and judgement to the family that has called him.