Nanda Devi Raj Jat Trek

Overview

The Nanda Devi Raj Jat trekking route from Wan to Homkund is a grade-3 (moderate-to-difficult) Himalayan trek covering 28 km one way with a cumulative altitude gain of 2,360m. It passes through five distinct altitude zones: the mixed forest-and-farmland approach to Wan, the rhododendron forest above Wan, the open alpine meadow of Bedni Bugyal (3,354m), the sub-alpine transitional zone (Patar Nachauni to Kailua Vinayak), and the glacial zone (Shila Samundra to Homkund). Each zone has different terrain, different vegetation, and significantly different weather.

The trek is available in two contexts: during the Raj Jat itself (every 12 years, when thousands of pilgrims are on the same route), and in non-Raj Jat years as a standalone trekking route managed through GMVN and the Forest Department permit system. The Wan–Bedni section is the most trekked part and can be done as a 3-night, 4-day return trip. The full Wan–Homkund route requires at minimum 5 nights and is only for those with altitude experience.

Travel Planning

Trek Summary

Stage-by-Stage Trek Description

Stage 1: Wan to Bedni Bugyal (8 km, 5–6 hrs)

The trail begins from Wan village (2,440m) and climbs immediately through dense rhododendron and oak forest. The first 4 km are the steepest section of the entire trek — a consistent 300–400m elevation gain over this distance with no significant flat sections. The forest is remarkable in May–June when the rhododendrons are in bloom (red, pink and white varieties at different altitudes). The final 4 km to Bedni Bugyal are more gradual, crossing through mixed forest that opens onto the bugyal meadow about 1 km below Bedni Kund lake.

The arrival at Bedni Bugyal (3,354m) is one of the most rewarding moments in Garhwali trekking — the sudden opening of the meadow, the lake at its centre, and the panorama of Trishul (7,120m), Nanda Ghunti (6,309m) and the Himalayan chain beyond is extraordinary. GMVN rest house at Bedni has 8–10 rooms (book in advance); otherwise camp on the meadow (tent required).

Stage 2: Bedni Bugyal (acclimatisation day)

A rest day at 3,354m is mandatory for anyone going to Homkund who has not previously been to altitude. Activities: the Bedni Kund lake circuit (2 km), exploration of the upper bugyal, the small shrine at the lake edge. SpO₂ monitoring recommended — if blood oxygen saturation is below 88%, do not proceed the next day. The meadow is also one of Garhwal's finest wildflower sites (June peak).

Stage 3: Bedni Bugyal to Kailua Vinayak via Patar Nachauni (8 km, 5–6 hrs)

This stage climbs from 3,354m to 3,900m — a 546m gain across varied terrain. The first 4 km to Patar Nachauni (3,640m) are on open bugyal, following the broad glacial valley above Bedni. The trail is less defined here; in September, it is clear; in June, snow patches may obscure it (guide recommended). Patar Nachauni is a wide flat camp at 3,640m — good camping but nights are below 0°C.

From Patar Nachauni, the trail climbs another 260m to Kailua Vinayak (3,900m) over rocky ground. The Ganesh shrine here marks the end of the trekking zone and the beginning of the high glacial section. This is the last reliable flat camping ground before the final push.

Stage 4: Kailua Vinayak to Homkund via Shila Samundra (12 km, 7–8 hrs)

The most demanding stage of the trek. From Kailua Vinayak (3,900m), the trail enters the boulder zone — the Shila Samundra ("ocean of rocks") plateau at 4,200m. There is no path as such here; navigation is by landmark and GPS. The 6 km from Kailua to Shila Samundra involves constant boulder-hopping on large, unstable boulders — slow progress, exhausting even for fit trekkers.

From Shila Samundra (4,200m), the remaining 6 km to Homkund cross permanent snowfields. Micro-spikes or traction devices are useful here. The lake itself is visible for the last kilometre of approach — a small blue-grey oval surrounded by snow-streaked cliff faces and glacier ice. The altitude at Homkund (4,800m) is high enough that even acclimatised trekkers feel the oxygen deficit; move slowly, breathe deliberately, and rest frequently on the final approach.

History & Culture

The Wan–Bedni Bugyal route is one of the most historically significant trekking corridors in the Garhwal Himalaya. For centuries before the Raj Jat formalized it as a pilgrimage route, it was used by shepherds moving their flocks to the high summer bugyals (Bedni Bugyal is a traditional summer grazing ground), by traders crossing between the Nandakini and Pindar valleys, and by local hunters following the wildlife that moved between the forested lower zone and the open high meadows. The trail retains its historical character — it is not a constructed tourist path but a living route shaped by centuries of varied use.

Tips

• Hire a local guide from Wan for the full route to Homkund — not just for navigation but for altitude safety awareness. A guide who has done the route many times knows when a trekker's behaviour is concerning (slowing significantly, losing coordination, changes in speech or mood) and can act accordingly.
• Start the Kailua to Homkund stage very early — ideally before 5 AM — to be at Homkund by noon. Weather above 4,000m deteriorates in the afternoon and the 12 km boulder-snowfield section requires full concentration; do it in the morning's best conditions.
• Do not attempt Homkund in one day from Bedni — the 20 km and 1,446m altitude gain from Bedni to Homkund in a single day is technically possible but extremely dangerous without prior altitude acclimatisation. Two days (Bedni to Kailua, Kailua to Homkund) is the minimum; three stages is much safer.
• Descent from Homkund to Wan can be done in 1.5 days (Homkund to Bedni Day 1; Bedni to Wan Day 2). The descent is straightforward but the boulder section at Shila Samundra is equally slow going downhill.

FAQs

Can a beginner hiker do the Wan to Bedni Bugyal section?

Yes — the Wan to Bedni Bugyal section (8 km, 914m altitude gain) is accessible to reasonably fit hikers with no specific Himalayan experience. It is graded moderate (Grade 2). The altitude at Bedni (3,354m) is high enough to cause mild altitude sickness in some individuals, so a slow pace and one-night stay for acclimatisation is recommended. Beyond Bedni toward Homkund, the trek requires altitude experience and should not be attempted by beginners without a guide.

Is the trek to Homkund possible without camping equipment?

For the Wan–Bedni section, GMVN has a rest house at Wan and basic accommodation at Bedni (8 rooms, book in advance). Beyond Bedni, there are no facilities — camping with a tent rated to -10°C, sleeping bag rated to at least -5°C, and cooking equipment is mandatory from Patar Nachauni onward. Most trekkers use the GMVN facilities for Wan and Bedni and camp for the Patar Nachauni, Kailua and Homkund stages.

What wildlife can I expect on the trek?

The forest section between Wan and Bedni is habitat for Himalayan black bear, leopard, tahr (Himalayan wild goat), and several pheasant species including the Himalayan monal (Uttarakhand's state bird). Bedni Bugyal itself is known for Himalayan marmots (active in the meadows from May–September), bharal (blue sheep) on the rocky outcrops above, and snow leopard presence (rarely seen). The Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve buffer zone — which the upper route passes through — is one of the highest-biodiversity areas in the Indian Himalayas.